Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine.It probably comes as no surprise that when I read the title of the dogs my mind drifted to the French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu and specifically one of his best known books Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste In this book Bourdieu looks at notions of class and taste, he then go’s on to investigate how these judgements are made.
Though the ample cod fillet was nicely fried, the simple dressing of jalapeno aioli, lettuce and tomato did little to lift up the forgettable fish sandwich. The fried cod sandwich was likewise a letdown. The meat on the pork-centric Cuban sandwich, which substituted Jack cheese for Swiss, was overwhelmed by the unnecessary addition of barbecue sauce and would have benefitted from a more substantial bread than brioche. Tangy, fiery-hot Buffalo sauce mingles with creamy ranch dressing to calm the flames on a buttery, toasted brioche bun. A snappy Angus link is joined by a generous layer of juicy, slow-roasted pulled pork, sweet and spicy house-made barbecue sauce and complementary tanginess from dill pickles and chopped white onions.īuffalo chicken sandwich at mike's hot dogs // photo by david kovalukĬrispy, juicy fried chicken is the centerpiece of one of Mike’s best-selling sandwiches, topped with crisp apple wood-smoked bacon, Monterey Jack and a thick tomato slice. The Kansas City dog is an outright battle of barbecue flavor. The Old Mexico is dusted with southwest seasoning before a quick boil, then it’s seared and dressed with a delightfully spicy jalapeno aioli, black bean-corn salsa and a light sprinkle of queso fresco. Mike’s has serious prowess in selecting fresh ingredients to complement quarter-pound Red Hot Lou all-beef links. The result: a hefty, juicy burger that tastes like it was delivered to your car window by a waitress on roller skates. Thin, quarter-pound Angus beef patties are cooked to a crisp char diner-style on a flattop under a hot weight and dressed with thick dill pickle slices and a heap of salty-sweet caramelized onions on a buttery, toasted brioche bun. Loaded with traditional toppings of sauerkraut, hot brown mustard and caramelized onions, the sausage finishes with a salty crunch from deep-fried russet potato straws on top. The smoky, quarter-pound Angus beef Polish sausage is a thing to be adored. Polish sausage at mike's hot dogs // photo by david kovaluk Sprinkled with Monterey Jack and fresh chopped onions, the chili is likewise fantastic as a rich and hearty standalone dish. The combination of ground chuck and sirloin is pure heaven on a chili dog or smothered on crispy house russet fries.
This chili is a heavy, stick-to-your-bones meat sauce speckled with pinto beans. Here are some standouts from the kitchen. The comfort food throwback menu of burgers, hot dogs and fries is thoughtfully prepared with absolutely zero pretense by owner Michael Eagan.
The fire engine-red interior is decorated with vintage music prints and black-and-white photos, along with a handful of tables and metal chairs. With a steady thump of blues and rock setting the vibe, visiting Mike’s Hot Dogs, Soups and Sandwiches in University City feels like stepping inside an old jukebox.
Editor's note: Mike's Hot Dogs has closed.
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